Boater's handbook

The Canal & River Trust and the Environment Agency welcomes you to our waterways. This film is all about boating on our canals and rivers safely. There are few safer ways to travel than by boat, especially if you take the necessary precautions.

Wearing a lifejacket is the single most important thing you can do to stay safe. Always wear it on deck, when operating locks, swing bridges or passing through tunnels. You should also always have a hand hold on the boat, and wear sensible shoes with a good grip. Stepping on and off the boat is where most accidents happen. There could be a gap between the boat and the bank, and the ground may be uneven. Wear your lifejacket when doing this, and never jump. If someone falls in the water, stop the propeller or turn the engine off immediately. Don't jump in after them. The water is very cold, even in summer. Keep sight of the person in the water at all times. Throw a line to get them safely to the bank. If they are in a canal, tell them to try to stand up. Many canals are not very deep. On deeper or wider waterways, throw a life buoy close to, but not at, the person in the water. Pull them to the side of the boat and help them aboard. Watch the 'man overboard' film for more information on what to do if one of your party does fall in.

When passing under bridges and through tunnels, don't put yourself between the tunnel or bridge walls, or get in the way of a moving bridge or lock balance beam. You could end up getting seriously injured.

Boating on the inland waterways is all about enjoying a slower pace of life. On many waterways, there is a 4mph speed limit. If there are breaking waves behind your boat, you are going too fast. These waves can disturb the environment and even capsize canoes or paddleboards. Always slow down before you pass moored boats too.

Navigate your boat on the right hand side of the waterway. Give way to unpowered craft, like canoes or rowing or sailing boats, and large vessels such as passenger boats, freight barges or maintenance boats. Larger craft may need to keep to the deepest part of the channel, meaning you need to move out of the way. Take extra care in busy areas and keep an eye out for people in the water - paddleboards, canoes, kayaks and rowing boats - pass them slowly with as much room as possible.

Swimming in canals is prohibited in many places. In some rivers, swimming is allowed, but check with the navigation authority first. Be aware, the water can be very cold, even in the summer, and there are many hazards including deep and fast-flowing currents, mud, weeds and tree roots. If swimming is permitted, never enter the water to swim from your boat, however tempting. Always take care near the back of your boat, this is where the sharp propeller blades are. Never tow anything behind your boat, such as paddle boards, dinghies or inflatables.

Wash your hands before eating or drinking; you may have come into contact with the water, which can carry bacteria. If you feel unwell after contact with the water, seek medical advice.

During warmer spells, you may see a blue-green coloured scum on the water. This can indicate the presence of toxic bacteria. Avoid contact with water and make sure pets don't drink it either.

Sometimes it can be hard to know your precise loaction. It's helpful to download the What3Words app. The app will give you a precise three word code, which emergency services can use to locate you within a 3m x 3m area. It's always a good idea to keep a phone charged and in a waterproof pouch.

If you need to report criminal or antisocial behaviour, contact the police on 101. In the event of an emergency, call 999.

If you want to take your boat handling skills to the next level, consider taking a training course from an accredited provider, such as the RYA.

Please also read our Boaters' Handbook for more helpful information and advice.

The Canal & River Trust and the Environment Agency welcomes you to our waterways. This film is all about protecting the environment when you're out boating on our canals and rivers.

First of all, keep your speed down so you don't create a breaking wash. This can damage waterway structures and disturb fish and other wildlife. Go very slow when you pass nesting water birds. Never dump rubbish, toilet waste or oily bilgewater back into the waterway or onto the bank. If you have an oil leak, remove oil from your bilge by placing absorbent pads or rolls into it, so oily water doesn't get pumped out. You can dispose of used pads at most marinas and household waste recycling sites. Make sure you get any leaks sorted as soon as possible.

Use low phosphate detergents, and avoid bleach or other aggressive cleaning products in your boat. Remember, the waste water from your sink and shower empties into the waterway. Sometimes when it's warm and there are lots of nutrients in the water, for example from fertiliser that has washed off the land, algae can appear. These can be of the notorious blue-green type. Blue-green algae usually appears as greenish-blue streaks on the water. Algae can be toxic to anything that touches the water, including dogs and humans. This can cause stomach problems and skin rashes. Blue-green algae is even known to have caused dog fatalities.

Make sure you use the bins provided to dispose of any rubbish, or take it with you. Don't just leave rubbish behind. If everyone took their litter home and picked up just one piece of plastic each time they visited, our waterways could be litter-free within a year.

During your travels, you may encounter non-native and invasive species in and around our waterways. These can threaten the native wildlife and damage waterway structures. It is a criminal offense to spread invasive species in our waters. Apps such as Google Lens can help identify any species you encounter on our trip. If you come across a non-native one, such as zebra mussels, American signal crayfish, or giant hogweed, don't pick them up or move them. Help prevent the spread of invasive species by practising Check, Clean, Dry. First, check your equipment, boat and clothing for mud, aquatic animals or plant materials. remove everything you find and leave it at the site. Then, clean everything thoroughly as soon as you can, using hot water if possible. Finally, dry anything that can be taken out of the water, such as ropes and fenders, before using them elsewhere. Some invasive animals and plants can survive for more than two weeks in damp conditions.

And lastly, many boats rely on solid fuel stoves for heating. Please use only smokeless fuels, or fully dried wood, to help reduce harmful emissions. Some rivers and canals run through smoke control areas, so look out for signs. In these areas, you must use smokeless fuels and only emit smoke for up to 15 minutes while you are starting your fire.

Don't cut down trees next to waterways. It damages the environment and the wood is not suitable for burning until it has dried. You may see piles of wood we have cut down whilst maintaining the waterways. These are for wildlife to live in, so please leave them for bugs and beasts to use.

If you witness an environmental incident or pollution, please contact the Environment Agency incident hotline on 0800 80 70 60. The location or GPS information will be very helpful. Pictures or videos can also help the EA with their investigation. Sometimes it can be hard to know your precise location. It's helpful to download the What3Words app. The app will give you a precise three word code, which emergency services can use to locate you within a 3m x 3m area.

You can also report pollution by contacting the Canal & River Trust freephone number - 0800 47 999 47, or via our incident reporting form on the Trust website - www.canalrivertrust.org.uk/contact-us.

More information about protecting the environment while boating can be found online at thegreenblue.org.uk, or in the Boaters' Handbook and The Green Guide to Inland Boating.

Our rivers and canals provide something for everyone enjoying the scenery, having fun on the water, learning new skills, or just relaxing into a whole new slow pace of life. One of the most important contributions to your enjoyment of this wonderful waterways world will be you and your crew's ability to handle the boat and operate the locks safely and without stress.

This DVD aims to take the worry out of steering and handling a narrowboat and performing some basic manoeuvres to enable you and your crew to enjoy your time spent on the water. Crewing a boat is a team effort with everyone mucking in and doing their bit, however someone has to be in charge and that person needs to ensure that everyone knows what they're expected to do. You'll need to decide which of your party will be the skipper. Before setting off make sure that you understand how everything on your boat works and that you can carry out all the necessary routine checks.

Also make sure you know the location of the fire extinguishers and how to operate them, and that everyone knows exactly what to do if a fire should break out. Although fires and explosions are rare, it's important that you're aware of the risks. LPG bottled gas used for cookers and heaters is heavier than air and if there's a leak it will build up in the bottom of the boat and could be ignited by a spark. Always keep ventilators open and free from obstruction. If you smell gas immediately turn it off at the cylinder. If there's an incident, switch off the gas, steer the boat to the bank, and secure it. Get all the crew ashore and call for help.

Lifejackets are recommended, especially for under 18s and non-swimmers. Remember, the water can be very deep and at times extremely cold.

Setting off is simple. Start the engine, and if you've used mooring pins remove them by twisting and pulling straight out so as not to damage the bank. If you're in deep water, untie the front rope and push off. Do the same with the back, then motor away from the bank. Make sure you keep the deck areas tidy; loose items of gear can be a trip hazard. Also, stow all ropes carefully. If a rope trails in the water it can easily foul the propeller. If you're in shallow water or moored close to other boats, it's a good idea to push the back out first and use reverse gear to get well clear of the bank before engaging forward gear to motor away.

When travelling, always keep within the profile of the boat. A steel narrowboat weighs several tonnes, and you don't want any limbs or heads between it and a hard place, or another boat. If you need to get from one end of the boat to the other whilst underway, go through the boat rather than walking along the side.

When you need to stop your boat, remember it doesn't have brakes and it's important to give yourself plenty of time. Ease off the throttle, move into neutral and then use short bursts in reverse gear to slow the boat down and come to rest. Your boat won't always stop in a straight line, and may need a short burst of forward gear to correct its position.

Most canal boats are steered using a tiller, which is quite simple once you've had a little practice. Always stand in front of the tiller so it can't knock you if the rudder hits something under the water and swings the tiller over unexpectedly. Likewise, keep crew members clear of the tiller.

Steering a 50 or 60ft long boat down a narrow canal might seem a little daunting at first, but if you remember a few basic things you'll soon get the hang of it. Always think ahead and line the boat up for bridges and locks well in advance. Don't go on the roof of the boat while underway. Bridges and overhanging branches can easily sweep you off.

When steering, there are two main principles to bear in mind. Firstly, the boat can only be steered when the engine is in forward gear, which creates a flow of water across the rudder. Remember: no gear, no steer. Secondly, a narrowboat doesn't turn like a car with the back following the front; instead the boat will pivot around a point roughly halfway down its length. The boat is steered by the rudder pushing the back in one direction, which in turn causes the front to move in the opposite direction - so it's important to allow for the swing of the back when manoeuvring the boat. The secret is to let the front go past the point where you want to turn before pushing the tiller over to take the boat around, otherwise you run the risk of cutting the corner which can sometimes take you into shallow water, and you may even run aground. On bends, keep towards the outside where there is usually deeper water.

If you do run aground don't panic, it's easy to sort out. Simply get your crew onto the side of the boat opposite to where you're ground, then gently reverse away from the obstruction. Trying to go forward would just make matters worse. Selecting reverse gear will flush water under the boat, floating it off. If you're in very shallow water you may have to use the pole to push the back out into deeper water. Before reversing, make sure you use the pole against a solid object or the bed of the waterway, not against another boat or as a lever. Give yourself enough room to straighten up and steer away from the obstruction.

If you want to turn the boat round, look for a turning place which is called a winding hole, and will be marked in the guide book by a curved arrow. Most winding holes have a rough v-shape cut into the bank opposite the towpath. To turn your boat, put the front of the boat into the V, then use your engine in forward gear or use a pole to push the back of the boat round slowly. When you're far enough round, engage reverse to pull the front of the boat off the bank until you can steer away forward. Watch out for shallow water at the towpath edge.

The cardinal rule with all manoeuvres on the water is to think it through first and perform the manoeuvre slowly. Slow right down just short of where you want to moor, with your boat parallel to the bank. Have a crew member ready at the front and move forward slowly, steering into the bank. Before the boat touches, use reverse to stop the boat and let your crew member step off with a mooring rope. There's no need to jump. It's all too easy to slip between the boat and the bank. If there's a convenient ring or bollard, use this to help steady the boat - but don't pull it tight or you'll prevent the back coming in. With the tiller pointing towards the bank, use the engine to bring the back in, then use reverse gear to bring the boat to a halt, allowing you or another crew member to step off the back with a rope. Pull the boat into the bank and secure to the rings or bollards. It's a good idea to take the mooring ropes back to the boat, rather than tying to the ring or bollard itself. If there are no rings or bollards you'll need to put in mooring pins. Again, where possible taking the line back to the boat to secure. Pins should be kept away from the water's edge but should never be positioned across the towpath. Always tie up with the ropes going outwards at roughly 45° from the ends of the boat.

When tying up, you won't need to learn lots of complex ropework; a few basic hitches will be all you need. The most common is the round turn and two half hitches, used here to secure the back rope around the boat's bollards. If securing to a t-stud take a couple of turns around the arms, then turn the rope under on itself to form a locking hitch. A good way to secure a rope temporarily around a bollard is the clove hitch. Form a loop in the rope, then take the free end around the bollard and place the loop over over it. These three hitches should cover all the situations you're likely to meet. Make sure you never place your fingers between the rope and the bollards or rings. If the boat were to move, the rope could suddenly trap your fingers.

Locks allow boats to travel uphill or downhill. They provide a chance for the whole crew to get involved, and are often a place where you'll swap stories and local knowledge with other boaters. Locks do come in different shapes and sizes, but the principle of using them is pretty much the same. A lock is simply a chamber with gates to contain the water at either end. The flow of water in and out of the lock is controlled by sluices called paddles, which are operated using a windlass. The paddles at the top of the lock are used to let water in and those at the bottom to let water out, thus raising or lowering your boat.

Stop the boat well before the lock. Hold the boat with ropes and put one or more crew members ashore to get the lock ready. If there are only two of you, you may have a centre line. This makes it easier for one person to hold the boat steady, but the centre line should never be used for mooring up.

The golden rule at locks is to take your time and do things methodically. Remember that some of the lock mechanisms can be stiff and heavy to operate. Consider getting your fittest or strongest crew members to do the hard work. Make sure you lift any side fenders before going into a lock. It's important that the steerer stays at the tiller at all times with the engine running, so the boat is always under control.

Children love to get involved and help out at locks, it's all part of the adventure, but locks are deep with strong water flows so be particularly vigilant and make sure they're always fully supervised. For younger children in particular, the paddle gear is often at head height, so keep them well clear. A spinning or flying windlass can cause a lot of damage. Never leave a windlass unattended on the paddle mechanism. It's important that crew operating paddles stay by their paddle mechanism until the lock is empty or full, and they remain in contact with the skipper in case of emergency. Keep an eye on the boat at all times and if anything goes wrong close all paddles quickly and sort out the problem. Some locks have anti-vandal devices which you release with a handcuff key.

Just a word about priority. Locks aren't operated on a first come, first served basis, but on whether the lock can be used by another boat without wasting water. For example, if you're going downhill and come to a lock that's empty, always check to see if another boat is approaching from below the lock. If so, the lock would be in their favour. Wait for them to enter and use the lock. You would have had to fill the lock anyway, so you might as well do it with a boat in it. Of course, if there isn't another boat coming you don't need to wait for one to arrive. It's a case of using a little courtesy and common sense to save water. If there isn't another boat coming, make sure the gates and paddles at the far end of the lock are closed before lifting the paddles at the end nearest the boat.

To fill the lock make sure the windlass is a snug fit on the spindle by using the correct hole. All paddle mechanisms will have a safety catch of some type. These should always be engaged where possible. When the lock is full, push the gate open, steer the boat into the lock, and make sure the top paddles are fully closed. Always wind the paddles back down; letting them drop can cause them to break and put the lock out of action. Close the top gate, then you can open the paddles in front to let the water out. The steerer needs to keep an eye on the back of the boat to make sure it's always clear of the top gate sill. If necessary, briefly engage forward gear to keep the boat away. Make sure the front is clear of the bottom gate and the boat is floating freely.

As the lock empties, you'll find that the bottom gates will open quite easily once the water levels are equalized. Trying to force them before they're ready is a total waste of effort. Close all paddles, and, unless another boat is approaching, close the gates. Collect your crew unless there's another lock close by, in which case it's easier for them to stay off the boat and walk ahead to get the next lock ready.

Going uphill is a similar procedure. If the lock is full, make sure another boat isn't approaching, then empty it and steer the boat in. On most canals you won't experience strong currents, but on some water flows around the locks quite fast. If you see water movement, steer into the flow as it will push the front of the boat away, then back as it passes. Close the bottom gates and make sure the paddles are fully down.

To fill the lock, open the top paddles one at a time. Do this slowly. It's a good idea to initially lift the first paddle just half way to avoid a great insurge of water that can throw the boat backwards and forwards, making it difficult to control. If the lock is fitted with paddles in the top gate, don't open them until they're underwater. Opening them too early can cause water to swamp the front of the boat. Again, open them slowly and keep a watchful eye on the boat at all times. When the lock is full, the gate will open easily. Check that the paddles are all down and close the gates after the boat, unless another boat is waiting to use the lock.

Sometimes you'll come across two or more locks joined together in what is known as a staircase, where the top gate of one lock is the bottom gate of the next. Setting these locks is slightly different from a normal lock. Make sure that all paddles are down. If you're going uphill, the bottom lock should be empty with the upper ones all full. You use the water from the upper locks to fill the lower ones in turn, raising you up the flight.

When going downhill the top lock should be full with the lower ones empty. You empty the upper lock into the lower one ones in turn. With staircase locks it's important to check that another boat hasn't started in the opposite direction before you enter the first lock. The general rule is one boat up one boat down, unless local notices tell you otherwise.

Broad locks, that is ones which are wider than your boat, need a little extra care. Try to share with another boat whenever possible to save water and always use the front and back ropes to steady the boat in the lock. When you're using the lock alone and going uphill, always slowly open the top ground paddle - that's the one on the lock side rather than the one in the gate on the same side as the boat, first. This way, the flow of water into the lock will help to keep the boat against the lock wall, making it easier to control. When the lock is part full, you can open the paddles on the opposite side as well. Don't use gate paddles until they're underwater.

You'll find many types of bridges crossing the waterways. Most are fixed, which you'll pass under, and others need to be moved out of the way. These are either swing bridges or lifting bridges, and will need to be operated by your crew.

Remember to check you have sufficient head room to pass through. Stop the boat well before the bridge; leaving yourself plenty of room will make it easier to line the boat up correctly when you go through the bridge. Movable bridges are usually locked. Make sure when you land your crew that you have the proper key or windlass to unlock and operate the bridge. If the bridge carries traffic, make sure the road is clear and close any warning barriers. Unlock the chain or catch, and, for a swing bridge, give it a good controlled push. Be ready to slow the swing to prevent the bridge from bouncing off the buffer stop. Once the boat is through, close the bridge, secure the lock and raise any warning barriers.

Lifting bridges will have a winder which you operate with a windlass, or sometimes a chain or rope to pull to operate the bridge. When fully open, unless there's an obvious latch, get an adult to hold on to keep the bridge raised. Once you're sure that the boat is clear, gently lower the bridge, always keeping it under control. Some bridges are powered and need a facilities key to operate. Make sure you always follow the instructions and pay particular care to to traffic barriers, unlocking and relocking them when leaving, and don't forget to retrieve your key.

Some cruising routes include tunnels. These are quite easy and often fun to navigate, but they do require care. Tunnels may be narrow, only allowing one way traffic, or wide enough for boats to pass each other. Look for information and instruction boards, or traffic lights at the entrance. If you have to wait for another boat coming through, stay well clear of the tunnel entrance to give them room to pass. Make sure everyone is inside the boat with nobody's arms or legs hanging over the side. Prepare the boat by switching on the headlights and some interior lights. These will help to illuminate the tunnel walls. Turn off any gas appliances. Many tunnels are damp so put some waterproofs on and have a torch to hand.

As you enter the tunnel, sound one long blast on your horn. Steer by looking at one side of the tunnel only and keep to a moderate speed. Some tunnels allow canoes to use them. They won't have navigation lights so have someone as a lookout in the front of the boat to warn the skipper if you see one. Always keep a reasonable distance between you and any boat in front. If it's two-way traffic, watch out for oncoming boats and pass slowly on the right.

If your route includes a stretch of river, there are some additional factors to bear in mind. You must follow any specific instructions which are signposted. Unlike canals, the water in a river is always moving. In dry weather this current is quite gentle, but in prolonged wet weather the river has to carry more water and its speed will increase, and the water level will rise. It's easy to tell if the flow is normal. At every river lock there are marker boards. At normal river level, a green band shows. If the level rises it goes into yellow, which means take extra care. If the level is in the red, navigation on the river is prohibited and you should stop and moor safely until conditions improve. So all you have to do is check at each lock.

On some rivers there are flood locks. Locks which are open at normal flows, and closed in strong stream conditions. They're only operated by Canal & River Trust staff. If you come across a closed flood lock, you'll need to wait for Canal & River Trust staff to open it when the flood recedes.

If you need to moor up on a river, always approach the bank with the boat pointing upstream. If traveling downstream, go beyond your chosen stopping place, turn around and approach the bank against the current. This uses the current to slow the boat down and helps to maintain steering. When tying up always secure the upstream rope first, and when setting off untie the downstream rope first. Always leave some slack in your ropes to allow for water level changes. Don't moor overnight except at designated mooring sites, and always use fixed bollards or rings.

When approaching bridges, look for signs showing which arch to go through. Weirs generally near locks may have a sideways current flowing towards them. Be ready for this. Watch for signs and steer to counteract the current.

All boats on rivers must carry an anchor of adequate size and weight with a suitable length of rope secured to a strong point on the boat. The anchor should be stowed in such a way that it can be deployed quickly and easily in an emergency. Hire boats which go on rivers will have a suitable anchor.

The rule of the road on the canals is to steer down the centre of the waterway, but to move to your right when you meet an oncoming boat. Pass each other slowly. Going faster makes it more likely that you'll go aground.

If you're approaching a bridge or narrow section, slow down, and if an oncoming boat is closer to the bridge or narrow section, wave them through and keep to the right until they're well clear. However, on rivers the boat travelling downstream has right of way.

The speed limit on narrow canals is 4mph, which is equivalent to a brisk walking pace, but this is a maximum speed. On many canals, particularly if the water is shallow, you'll need to go much slower. Going too fast pulls the back of the boat deeper into the shallow water, making steering more difficult. The important thing is not to create a breaking wash which damages the bank. If another boat is slower than you it's usual to keep your distance and stay behind. If the other boat wants you to overtake, the skipper will wave you on and pull over to one side, and leave you room to pass slowly. A final word here about horn signals: give a single long blast when the viewer head is obscured, such as blind bends, junctions or bridges. On commercial waterways, two long blasts from an approaching boat means it wishes you to pass on the wrong side - that is, to the left of them.

No one should ever end up in the water, but it could happen, and if it does it's best to know what to do. If you're on a canal or a slow flowing shallow river and someone falls overboard, you should immediately go into neutral. If it's safe to do so, turn off the engine to prevent the person in the water being dragged into the propeller. Throw them a life belt and then ask them if they can stand up. It's more than likely that they'll be able to wade to the side of most canals. Guide the boat slowly to the bank and get one of your crew to help the person ashore. If you're on a wider river or deeper waterway, throw a life buoy or lifeline close to them. Manoeuvre the boat to approach them very carefully from the front, in order to keep them well away from the propeller. If there's any danger of them getting too close to the propeller, immediately select neutral gear. Pull them towards the front and side of the boat and help them aboard. But the best advice is to take great care not to fall in in the first place.

The canals are there for all to enjoy. Whether boating, walking, fishing, or cycling, you need to show consideration for other users. Your speed is probably the main thing to bear in mind. When passing moored boats, slow right down to tick over speed to avoid your wash pulling craft away from their moorings, and possibly pulling out mooring pins. Slow your boat down well in advance to allow it to lose momentum before you reach the moored boats. The same applies to fishermen. Always slow down to tick over and keep to the centre of the canal unless asked to do otherwise. When mooring, always try to leave room for other boats, and never moor on the approach to a lock or bridge, opposite a winding hole or at a water point.

Some of our bigger waterways carry freight in big barges. They have priority over pleasure boats. Keep well clear and watch for signals from the skipper, who may need you to move to give him the deeper water. Barges make a big wash, so when you moor on commercial waterways, use fixed bollards or rings. Barges also have restricted sight lines. If you can't see the skipper, he can't see you.

Okay, that's it. It may seem a lot to remember, but if you take your time, tackle everything slowly, and think things through first, you'll soon get used to handling your boat confidently, and your time on the waterways will be enjoyable and safe for you, for your crew, and for other waterway users. Happy cruising.